Step by Step - Build Your Own Steel Braid Brake Lines

Applies to any motorcycle with hydraulic brakes.

Written and photographed by Katman, a member of, with safety input from Tony Dieter. From Katman's post in forum.


I paid way too much money for someone else to do this last time, so after doing my own oil lines I decided to do my own brake lines.

1: After you have measured for length you need to cut the hose. Use electrical tape and wrap a couple times around the line tight.

2: Cut in the center of tape with a cutting disk, then take off tape.

3: Now cut away the plastic cover. Cut back about an inch so the fitting will fit over the line.

4: You will see the hose is made up of an outer steel braid and an inner core.

5: I like to trim back some of the steel braid with super scissors so the inner core extends beyond it a little. If the steel braid gets twisted into the threads your reusable fittings will not be usable again. Now tape the very end with electrical tape tight to flatten the braid. The braid flares a bit, so the fitting won't go on if you don't tape it. Remember just to tape the very end so you can get it off when the fitting is on. Only wrap it 1,5 times or it will be too thick to get the fitting on.

Let's take a look at the fittings. As you can see, the fitting has three components. The banjo, the ferrule, and the collar.

This is the correct configuration to install on brake line.

6: Slide the collar on over the tape with threaded end toward the caliper.

7: The ferrule has a flat side and the other side is for sliding over the inner core.

8: Push the ferrule over the inner core and under the braid. Look into the hole and see that the core is seated up tight against the back of the hole. See the flat side of the ferrule is visible. DON'T GET THIS WRONG!

9: Thread in the banjo. I tape up the end to protect it from the vise. Clamp banjo and with a 12mm wrench tighten up the collar.

10: Don't tighten completely. Take it out and check the shoulder of the banjo in relation to the collar. It is a good idea to have a loose assembly together to compare. See how deep the banjo is into the collar. DO NOT over tighten. If this is the second end you will also have to check the rotation of the fitting for alignment with the caliper and master cylinder. The steel braid doesn't twist either. Slowly adjust and tighten to get the right rotation without over tightening.

Now you are done!



The anodized fittings can be hard to find, but call around to the sportbike shops or shops that lean to racing. The fittings are complete, collar, ferrule, banjo. You can also order them from Earl's or Goodrich, and Aeroquip I think has them too.

Many shops carry bulk braided line. Just buy by the foot.


Fittings are around $20.00 USD. Straight ones are cheaper than angled ones.

Stainless steel fittings are far more available and 1/2 the price.

Banjo bolts are about $5.00 each.

Hose is about $8.00 or $9.00 a foot.

Many shops won't carry anodized fittings because of the reaction between steel and aluminum. They have a different charge and with the addition of salt (road salt in winter, salt sea air and so forth) they corrode quicker. They say they are for racing use only.

I say ...NUTS TO THAT....I have talked to several guys who use them and they have had no problems.

The total cost for the front brake lines was about $175.00 USD.